Location: Northern California
40.19 N 124.27 W
Sections
Introduction to the Lost Coast and the King Range
Climbing and Hiking Trails
Approach to the North Trailhead
The Lost Coast Trail, from the North Trailhead
Approach to the South Trailhead
Weather and Tide Activity on the North Coast
Essential Gear for the Lost Coast Trail
Red Tape and Legalese on the Lost Coast
Shuttle Services to the Trailheads
Areas Deemed Impassable at High Tide
Other Activities at Shelter Cove
Camping on the Lost Coast
Maps
Lost Coast Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
Introduction to the King Range and the Lost Coast
King Range National Conservation Area
The King Range National Conservation Area was established in 1970, when Congress created the protected area and put it in public hands under the management of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). It was the first National Conservation area to be designated as such. It is located about 230 miles north of San Francisco and 60 miles south of Eureka, California. The area covers close to 60,000 acres and extends along 35 miles of the coastline. It is administered by the BLM under the Arcata Field Office.
The King Range
The King Range is a dramatic meeting of land and sea along the California coast. Mountains thrust directly out of the surf, and the the summit of King's Peak, the highest point at 4,087 feet is less than three miles from the ocean. The King Range offers stunning ocean views and a rare backcountry experience on the U.S. coastline. The 35 miles of remote coastline between the mouth of the Mattole River and Sinkyone Wilderness State Park is known as California's "Lost Coast." It encompasses the 24.4 mile Lost Coast Trail over ocean beach terrain, varying from beautiful black sand beaches, rocky tidepools teeming with marine life, boulder, talus and driftwood log-strewn obstacles, impassable sections (during high tide) with surf pounding over thin strips of beach into the high cliffs that form the lower flanks of the King Range mountains, hundreds of species of sea birds, and even the odd hermit's cabin, if you look closely enough.
Photos byJohn Wang
King Range National Conservation Area
The King Range National Conservation Area was established in 1970, when Congress created the protected area and put it in public hands under the management of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). It was the first National Conservation area to be designated as such. It is located about 230 miles north of San Francisco and 60 miles south of Eureka, California. The area covers close to 60,000 acres and extends along 35 miles of the coastline. It is administered by the BLM under the Arcata Field Office.
The King Range
The King Range is a dramatic meeting of land and sea along the California coast. Mountains thrust directly out of the surf, and the the summit of King's Peak, the highest point at 4,087 feet is less than three miles from the ocean. The King Range offers stunning ocean views and a rare backcountry experience on the U.S. coastline. The 35 miles of remote coastline between the mouth of the Mattole River and Sinkyone Wilderness State Park is known as California's "Lost Coast." It encompasses the 24.4 mile Lost Coast Trail over ocean beach terrain, varying from beautiful black sand beaches, rocky tidepools teeming with marine life, boulder, talus and driftwood log-strewn obstacles, impassable sections (during high tide) with surf pounding over thin strips of beach into the high cliffs that form the lower flanks of the King Range mountains, hundreds of species of sea birds, and even the odd hermit's cabin, if you look closely enough.
Photos by
There are many little gravel back roads in the area....beware. Many just keep getting smaller, becoming impassable higher up. Early winter rains can render many of the King Range's roads impassable or in poor condition. From November to May is generally a very wet, cold and damp time of the year here, so this hike is best undertaken between late May to September. Avoid the "Pot Wars" that the area has been reputed for, and stay away from any back roads that are not your correct choice of access, or any strange-looking gentlemen driving ATV vehicles. People have inquired if it would be possible to ride a mountain bike down the Lost Coast Trail; the answer is a resounding 'no', unless you want to carry it most of the way.
The King Range is perhaps the wettest mountain range in North America, with the village of Honeydew recording one hundred inches of precipitation a year; half of that can be from fog. Very wet years can see two hundred inches of rain, accompanied by mudslides and impassable mountain roads. Many creeks flow out of the green canyons directly into the ocean. The shorelines of the Lost Coast consist of beaches in many areas, but high rainfall, steep cliff faces and loose slopes have created many talus fields and rubble piles along the shore which are very difficult to move across, especially at high tide, when it can become impossible. Several trails lead to the summit ofKing's Peak , and a couple lead to the summit of Chemise Mountain, but they are mainly trail hiking ascents, with almost no signage, can be overgrown in places, and bushwhacking in these ravines and ridges is difficult to impossible in places, so climbing opportunities are rather limited on the coastal peaks. However, most people do not come here to climb, but to hike along the Lost Coast instead.
The King Range is perhaps the wettest mountain range in North America, with the village of Honeydew recording one hundred inches of precipitation a year; half of that can be from fog. Very wet years can see two hundred inches of rain, accompanied by mudslides and impassable mountain roads. Many creeks flow out of the green canyons directly into the ocean. The shorelines of the Lost Coast consist of beaches in many areas, but high rainfall, steep cliff faces and loose slopes have created many talus fields and rubble piles along the shore which are very difficult to move across, especially at high tide, when it can become impossible. Several trails lead to the summit of
Mountains of the King's Range
The mountains of the King's Range National Conservation area include King's Peak, Cooksie Mountain, Telegraph Peak, North Slide Peak, Shubrick Peak, Hadley Peak, Queen's Peak, Chemise Mountain and Fire Hill as well as a variety of long ridges, cliffs, gullies and canyons. An excellent map of the area including trails, roads, topographics, mountains, and campgrounds is available from the Wilderness Press map and guide, "Trails of the Lost Coast - A Recreation Guide to King Range National Conservation Area". (ISBN number 0-89997-203-9, available at REI stores). Their website is www.wildernesspress.com.
The Lost Coast
The Lost Coast of California is the wildest and most remote stretch of coastline in the western United States, and possibly even in the entire country. Once having visited it, you will never forget it. The rugged canyons, lush green walls and their clean-running streams, emptying into the Pacific; the deep-green valleys, forested in huge redwood trees; the peaks dropping into the ocean's pounding surf; the rocky shorelines; the marine life, sights, smells and sounds all combine to create the unique Lost Coast of California. On a warm summer day, this beautiful stretch of coastline is an idyllic place to hike, camp, retreat, or just lie down and forget what is going on in the rest of the world. Keep in mind that rattlesnakes are known to inhabit this area, even on the beaches. Keep away from clusters of driftwood and rockpiles which are well back from the ocean in sunny spots.
The mountains of the King's Range National Conservation area include King's Peak, Cooksie Mountain, Telegraph Peak, North Slide Peak, Shubrick Peak, Hadley Peak, Queen's Peak, Chemise Mountain and Fire Hill as well as a variety of long ridges, cliffs, gullies and canyons. An excellent map of the area including trails, roads, topographics, mountains, and campgrounds is available from the Wilderness Press map and guide, "Trails of the Lost Coast - A Recreation Guide to King Range National Conservation Area". (ISBN number 0-89997-203-9, available at REI stores). Their website is www.wildernesspress.com.
The Lost Coast
The Lost Coast of California is the wildest and most remote stretch of coastline in the western United States, and possibly even in the entire country. Once having visited it, you will never forget it. The rugged canyons, lush green walls and their clean-running streams, emptying into the Pacific; the deep-green valleys, forested in huge redwood trees; the peaks dropping into the ocean's pounding surf; the rocky shorelines; the marine life, sights, smells and sounds all combine to create the unique Lost Coast of California. On a warm summer day, this beautiful stretch of coastline is an idyllic place to hike, camp, retreat, or just lie down and forget what is going on in the rest of the world. Keep in mind that rattlesnakes are known to inhabit this area, even on the beaches. Keep away from clusters of driftwood and rockpiles which are well back from the ocean in sunny spots.
Along the way, one can easily spot California gray whales as they surface for air in the shallows just beyond reach of the surf, or see and hear the barking of groups of sea lions or seals as they frolic on the surface in the waves, or in shoreline rookeries. Approach a band of two hundred seals that immediately all spill off their comfortable rocks into the tidepools where they bob in unison with the swell, all eyes watching you and the big alpha male on the shoreline who refuses to leave and lunges around, roaring and hissing. Wrecked and partially sunken fishing trawlers, an old Caterpiller diesel engine, parts torn from lost ships, and lost commercial fishing equipment bear witness to the ferocity of storms along this coastline, particularly in the region of Punta Gorda, a treacherous, reef-strewn sailors' hell, where many sailors, explorers and travellers met their destiny in the past during violent storms with high seas and destructive winds.
Extremely steep, mountainous and rocky terrain forced the coastal highway route, State Highway 1, about 30 miles inland from the King Range. This obstacle to transportation and settlement remains today as California's "Lost Coast." The 16-mile King Crest Trail System provides foot and horse access along the main coastal ridge north of Shelter Cove. There are three trailheads-one at the end of the Saddle Mountain Road, one midway along the Smith-Etter Road, and one near the end of the King Range Road.
Extremely steep, mountainous and rocky terrain forced the coastal highway route, State Highway 1, about 30 miles inland from the King Range. This obstacle to transportation and settlement remains today as California's "Lost Coast." The 16-mile King Crest Trail System provides foot and horse access along the main coastal ridge north of Shelter Cove. There are three trailheads-one at the end of the Saddle Mountain Road, one midway along the Smith-Etter Road, and one near the end of the King Range Road.
Climbing and Hiking Trails
Steep, short trails wind and switchback up Chemise Mountain and King's Peak. To climb Chemise Mountain you may start from either the Wailaki Recreation Site or the Nadelos Recreation Site - both are 1.5 mile hikes. King's Peak has three established routes: south Saddle Mountain Trailhead (5 mile) and North Slide Peak Trailhead (5.5 mile), both on the King's Crest Trail, as well as the Lightning Trail (2 mile). Other useful and esthetic intersecting trails to climb King's Peak via the King's Crest Trail are the Rattlesnake Ridge Trail and Buck Creek Trail. Below are some logistics provided by the Wilderness Press in their excellent map/guide, "Trails of the Lost Coast - A Recreation Guide To King Range Conservation Area / Sinkyone Wilderness State Park."
Steep, short trails wind and switchback up Chemise Mountain and King's Peak. To climb Chemise Mountain you may start from either the Wailaki Recreation Site or the Nadelos Recreation Site - both are 1.5 mile hikes. King's Peak has three established routes: south Saddle Mountain Trailhead (5 mile) and North Slide Peak Trailhead (5.5 mile), both on the King's Crest Trail, as well as the Lightning Trail (2 mile). Other useful and esthetic intersecting trails to climb King's Peak via the King's Crest Trail are the Rattlesnake Ridge Trail and Buck Creek Trail. Below are some logistics provided by the Wilderness Press in their excellent map/guide, "Trails of the Lost Coast - A Recreation Guide To King Range Conservation Area / Sinkyone Wilderness State Park."
Lost Coast Trail
Mouth of Mattole River Recreation Site to Punta Gorda
Lighthouse 3.2 miles
Punta Gorda Lighthouse to Spanish Flat 5.2 miles
Spanish Flat to Big Flat 7.5 miles
Big Flat to Buck Creek Trail 3.3 miles
Buck Creek Trail to Black Sands Beach 5.2 miles / total
24.4 miles
King's Crest Trail
South ) Saddle Mountain Trailhead to King's Peak 5.0
miles
North) N. Slide Peak Trailhead to King's Peak 5.5 miles
Lightning Trail
Lightning Trailhead to King's Peak 2.0 miles
Cooksie Creek Trail
Spanish Ridge Trailhead To Punta Gorda 10.0 miles
Spanish Ridge Trail
Spanish Ridge Trailhead To Beach 2.9 miles
Kinsey Ridge Trail
Kinsey Ridge Trailhead To Beach 4.0 miles
Rattlesnake Ridge Trail
King Crest Trail To Beach 4.6 miles
Buck Creek Trail
Saddle Mountain Trailhead To Beach 4.4 miles
Chemise Mountain Trail
Wailaki Recreation Site To Chemise Mountain 1.5 miles
Nadelos Recreation Site to Chemise Mountain 1.5 miles
Approach to the North Trailhead
Prevailing Winds
Because of the overiding fact that prevailing winds here are generally from the north, most hikers start the route at Mattole Campground and work their way south. To reach Mattole Campground from Highway 101, turn off of the 101 right after Fortuna, onto Highway 211, a quiet ashphalt road which will lead you into the Victorian village of Ferndale. Drive through this picturesque little place and find The Wildcat, a small paved road (south of the downtown section) which goes under a huge metal gate and quickly rises up into the small mountain range on the south edge of town. As this road winds up and around hairpin curves, steep hills and down deep valleys, take your time and enjoy the beautiful views, including magnificent vistas of the Pacific Ocean from the tops of some of the largest hills.
Prevailing Winds
Because of the overiding fact that prevailing winds here are generally from the north, most hikers start the route at Mattole Campground and work their way south. To reach Mattole Campground from Highway 101, turn off of the 101 right after Fortuna, onto Highway 211, a quiet ashphalt road which will lead you into the Victorian village of Ferndale. Drive through this picturesque little place and find The Wildcat, a small paved road (south of the downtown section) which goes under a huge metal gate and quickly rises up into the small mountain range on the south edge of town. As this road winds up and around hairpin curves, steep hills and down deep valleys, take your time and enjoy the beautiful views, including magnificent vistas of the Pacific Ocean from the tops of some of the largest hills.
Cape Mendocino
When the rest of California's hills have turned brown for the summer, the deep hills and gorges of the mountains of the Lost Coast remain green and lush. The notorious fog that hangs over the coastline doubles the amount of total precipitation received in this area. The huge vista at Cape Mendocino, fifteen miles north of Petrolia, and the furthest western point of California, will have you captivated as you quickly lose elevation. The road drops here right to sea level and follows the coast for about ten miles before heading back inland around an oceanside mountainous area. Once you reach Petrolia, drive through it, cross the bridge over the Mattole River, immediately turn right on Lighthouse Road, and follow it to Mattole Campground, right at the Pacific Ocean. This is the north trailhead, and will take well over an hour to reach from Ferndale. Only smaller vehicles will be able to handle this road; recreational vehicles and trucks with campers are much too long to make the hairpin turns and sudden accompanying steep hills.
The Mattole Campground is about a mile south of the actual mouth of the Mattole River, which swiftly slices it's way through tidal sands into the Pacific Ocean. Some years the river mouth can be walked over at low tide by merely getting wet feet for a few seconds. In July of 2005 the river mouth was sixteen feet wide, four feet deep, fast flowing and likely to carry a hiker out to sea. A group of people were transferring equipment across the river further upstream at a wider, slower spot, using a canoe. Conditions do change from year to year.
When the rest of California's hills have turned brown for the summer, the deep hills and gorges of the mountains of the Lost Coast remain green and lush. The notorious fog that hangs over the coastline doubles the amount of total precipitation received in this area. The huge vista at Cape Mendocino, fifteen miles north of Petrolia, and the furthest western point of California, will have you captivated as you quickly lose elevation. The road drops here right to sea level and follows the coast for about ten miles before heading back inland around an oceanside mountainous area. Once you reach Petrolia, drive through it, cross the bridge over the Mattole River, immediately turn right on Lighthouse Road, and follow it to Mattole Campground, right at the Pacific Ocean. This is the north trailhead, and will take well over an hour to reach from Ferndale. Only smaller vehicles will be able to handle this road; recreational vehicles and trucks with campers are much too long to make the hairpin turns and sudden accompanying steep hills.
The Mattole Campground is about a mile south of the actual mouth of the Mattole River, which swiftly slices it's way through tidal sands into the Pacific Ocean. Some years the river mouth can be walked over at low tide by merely getting wet feet for a few seconds. In July of 2005 the river mouth was sixteen feet wide, four feet deep, fast flowing and likely to carry a hiker out to sea. A group of people were transferring equipment across the river further upstream at a wider, slower spot, using a canoe. Conditions do change from year to year.
