Location: Alberta, Canada
52.24 N 117.173 W
Sections
Nigel Peak - Overview
Nigel Peak Trailhead
Climbing Season in the Columbia Icefield
Mountain Conditions and Weather in the Columbia Icefield
Red Tape, Fees and Legalese in Jasper National Park
Camping and Backpacking in Jasper National Park
Nigel Peak Miscellaneous Information
Disclaimer – Hazard Warning
Columbia Icefield Centre
Maps
Nigel Peak – Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
Nigel Peak - Overview
Nigel Peak is a two-mile-long ridge that lies on the boundary of Jasper National Park and Banff National Park in Alberta. It has two summits; the main summit rises up above theNorthwest Ridge (east of Mt. Athabasca) and is a very prominent peak in the area. Its second summit, to the southeast, while slightly lower, also stands out, with sharply rising ridges leading to a small pointed summit. Nigel Peak is flanked by Mt. Wilcox , Snow Dome and Mt. Athabasca .
This peak is a non-technical climb, however you will expend a large amount of energy getting to the top. The entire peak is very loose with questionable rock quality; the route is long but rewarding. The summit view from Nigel Peak has to be seen to be appreciated, with theColumbia Icefield and all of its peaks and glaciers off to the west and the Front Ranges to the east. In fact, from the summit of Nigel Peak on a clear day it is possible to view twenty-two of the Rocky Mountains' 11,000 foot peaks, according to Alan Kane , author of the best-selling guide book Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies.
Nigel Peak is a two-mile-long ridge that lies on the boundary of Jasper National Park and Banff National Park in Alberta. It has two summits; the main summit rises up above the
This peak is a non-technical climb, however you will expend a large amount of energy getting to the top. The entire peak is very loose with questionable rock quality; the route is long but rewarding. The summit view from Nigel Peak has to be seen to be appreciated, with the
Discovery
Nigel Peak was first seen byWalter Wilcox , who initially explored the area. The mountain was named by J. Norman Collie in 1898 after Nigel Vavasour, a guide, hunter and porter who accompanied Collie and Hugh Stutfield during their exploratory expedition of 1897-1898. It is located in the northern Sunwapta River Valley near the headwaters of the Athabasca and Saskatchewan Rivers, and its ramparts are easily viewed above Wilcox Pass from Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway.
First Ascent
Nigel Peak was first climbed in 1919 by members of the Interprovincial Boundary Commission. The main route generally used by most climbers ascends the Northwest Ridge from Wilcox Pass and is really just a moderate scramble with a large amount of scree on the faces and gullies.
Nigel Peak was first seen by
First Ascent
Nigel Peak was first climbed in 1919 by members of the Interprovincial Boundary Commission. The main route generally used by most climbers ascends the Northwest Ridge from Wilcox Pass and is really just a moderate scramble with a large amount of scree on the faces and gullies.
Nigel Peak Trailhead
From Jasper, Alberta, head south on Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway for approximately 103 km to the Columbia Icefield Centre on your left. Continue for another 2.7 km until you reach Wilcox Campground and turn left into the campground. Self-registration is in effect and the cost is $18/night.
From Banff, Alberta, head north for approximately 186 km until you reach the turnoff for Wilcox Campground on your right. Wilcox Campground is generally considered the trailhead, but Wilcox Pass, which must be crossed to reach the slopes of Nigel Peak, can be accessed by climbing at several points between cliff bands from Highway 93, or even from behind the Icefield Centre itself.
While driving on Highway 93 en route to Nigel Peak, take time to occasionally stop and witness the fantastic sights of the Continental Divide along the way, with some of the most grand, rugged and heavily-crevassed mountain terrain in Canada surrounding you. You will not be disappointed. And to make sure that you do get there, be careful to watch out for the multitudes of elk, bears, moose, goats, sheep, cougars and other animals that often cross the highway. Dusk and nightfall are particularly prime times to be on the alert for animals on the road. Note also that the Icefield Parkway is a very steep and winding road in some places, snow storms can strike at any time of the year, and driving can become treacherous with no warning, especially with black ice on the highway in places.
From Jasper, Alberta, head south on Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway for approximately 103 km to the Columbia Icefield Centre on your left. Continue for another 2.7 km until you reach Wilcox Campground and turn left into the campground. Self-registration is in effect and the cost is $18/night.
From Banff, Alberta, head north for approximately 186 km until you reach the turnoff for Wilcox Campground on your right. Wilcox Campground is generally considered the trailhead, but Wilcox Pass, which must be crossed to reach the slopes of Nigel Peak, can be accessed by climbing at several points between cliff bands from Highway 93, or even from behind the Icefield Centre itself.
While driving on Highway 93 en route to Nigel Peak, take time to occasionally stop and witness the fantastic sights of the Continental Divide along the way, with some of the most grand, rugged and heavily-crevassed mountain terrain in Canada surrounding you. You will not be disappointed. And to make sure that you do get there, be careful to watch out for the multitudes of elk, bears, moose, goats, sheep, cougars and other animals that often cross the highway. Dusk and nightfall are particularly prime times to be on the alert for animals on the road. Note also that the Icefield Parkway is a very steep and winding road in some places, snow storms can strike at any time of the year, and driving can become treacherous with no warning, especially with black ice on the highway in places.
Climbing Season in the Columbia Icefield
The mountain can be climbed year round, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Very few ascents are made of this peak in winter due to brutally cold temperatures, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. A climb of this peak inspring conditions is often as hazardous as a winter climb, if not worse. It's a pretty lonely place in the winter, and the rate of traffic on the highway slows to a trickle as well as a result. The Columbia Icefield Centre is closed from October until May, resulting in even less human presence in this wild and beautiful area.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Winter conditions and spring avalanches often continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the Athabasca Glacier, chilling the entire area, even in summer months.
The mountain is usually best climbed in summer conditions, which means June to September. A May ascent can be expected to be done in heavy snow, with probable avalanche conditions. Spring blizzards are certainly possible, and should not be taken lightly. Needless to say, few ascents are made of this peak in winter due to numerous objective hazards, bitter cold temperatures accompanied by high winds, and frequent storms which render zero visibility for about one of every three statistical days.
The Northwest Ridge is sharp, and a true knife-edge arete in some places. In winter, large cornices are likely to be found, as well as variable snow conditions ranging from perfect to deep, unconsolidated slabs or powder. Large pinnacles are found at the crest of this ridge, which must be traversed or bypassed, which is difficult and dangerous in winter conditions. Most climbers do not climb the entire ridge, but hike up the southern face of the Northwest Ridge, to the left of the main summit. In this way, the need to climb loose, exposed terrain is eliminated, along with the necessity to traverse the pinnacles and gendarmes on the upper ridge.
Photo by Dow Williams
The mountain can be climbed year round, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Very few ascents are made of this peak in winter due to brutally cold temperatures, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. A climb of this peak in
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Winter conditions and spring avalanches often continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the Athabasca Glacier, chilling the entire area, even in summer months.
The mountain is usually best climbed in summer conditions, which means June to September. A May ascent can be expected to be done in heavy snow, with probable avalanche conditions. Spring blizzards are certainly possible, and should not be taken lightly. Needless to say, few ascents are made of this peak in winter due to numerous objective hazards, bitter cold temperatures accompanied by high winds, and frequent storms which render zero visibility for about one of every three statistical days.
The Northwest Ridge is sharp, and a true knife-edge arete in some places. In winter, large cornices are likely to be found, as well as variable snow conditions ranging from perfect to deep, unconsolidated slabs or powder. Large pinnacles are found at the crest of this ridge, which must be traversed or bypassed, which is difficult and dangerous in winter conditions. Most climbers do not climb the entire ridge, but hike up the southern face of the Northwest Ridge, to the left of the main summit. In this way, the need to climb loose, exposed terrain is eliminated, along with the necessity to traverse the pinnacles and gendarmes on the upper ridge.
Mountain Conditions and Weather in the Columbia Icefield
Climbing conditions
Rescue Dynamics offers current climbing conditions , as well as weather reports and a host of other mountaineering related services. Current climbing conditions can sometimes be obtained by calling Park Wardens in Jasper National Park at (780) 852-6155 or (780) 852-6181 at the Sunwapta Station. Park Wardens climb often in this area during training, while performing rescue operations as well as for personal recreation, and they often have recent and accurate information with regards to climbing conditions in the Columbia Icefield area.
Climbing conditions
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Red Tape, Fees and Legalese in Jasper National Park
Campers and backcountry hikers and skiers in Jasper National Park can reserve campsites with Parks Canada. Some trails are subject to quotas, so reservations are good insurance to guarantee a camping spot during the busier months of the year. Reservations can be made three months in advance.
Backcountry camping requires a permit as well at $8/night (maximum of $30) and a $10 reservation fee. Annual wilderness passes are available for $42 and are valid for 12 months from the date of purchase. Contact the Jasper Parks Visitor Centre for more information on this at (780) 852-6176 or see the Jasper National Park Home Page (which contains links to fees, trail reports, and avalanche reports)
Up-to-date Park fees and camping fees can be found at Parks Canada Fee Page - Jasper National Park. A National Park Pass is required if you will be stopping anywhere in Jasper National Park. They can be purchased at any entry point to Jasper or Banff National Park, or at any Ranger Station, $8 per person or $16 per vehicle. Open fires are not allowed anywhere in Jasper National Park, except in restricted locations at approved campsites.
Parking is allowed in Wilcox Campground, provided you are registered there, although there are a few parking spots before the registration box and Highway 93. Parking is also allowed and free at the Icefield Centre, although most parties will not want to climb Nigel Peak from this location due to the longer distance.
Campers and backcountry hikers and skiers in Jasper National Park can reserve campsites with Parks Canada. Some trails are subject to quotas, so reservations are good insurance to guarantee a camping spot during the busier months of the year. Reservations can be made three months in advance.
Backcountry camping requires a permit as well at $8/night (maximum of $30) and a $10 reservation fee. Annual wilderness passes are available for $42 and are valid for 12 months from the date of purchase. Contact the Jasper Parks Visitor Centre for more information on this at (780) 852-6176 or see the Jasper National Park Home Page (which contains links to fees, trail reports, and avalanche reports)
Up-to-date Park fees and camping fees can be found at Parks Canada Fee Page - Jasper National Park. A National Park Pass is required if you will be stopping anywhere in Jasper National Park. They can be purchased at any entry point to Jasper or Banff National Park, or at any Ranger Station, $8 per person or $16 per vehicle. Open fires are not allowed anywhere in Jasper National Park, except in restricted locations at approved campsites.
Parking is allowed in Wilcox Campground, provided you are registered there, although there are a few parking spots before the registration box and Highway 93. Parking is also allowed and free at the Icefield Centre, although most parties will not want to climb Nigel Peak from this location due to the longer distance.