AA Col - Overview
Also known as the Athabasca - Andromeda Col, this is the safest route on the peak, as it is often relatively free from avalanche danger when all of the routes on the north side of Mt. Athabasca are experiencing lee-side windloading. Also, on this side of the mountain the route is in shade until around noon, so the snow stays hard and good for travel, and free from immediate avalanche hazard, when many other mountain routes are already beginning to soften up by this time.
However, it is steep, and rappelling can be required to descend this route in bare and icy late-season conditions, particularly at the bergeschrund. Once you are past the entrance to the AA Col and are on the glacier approaching the col itself, this area can often be sheltered from wind when the rest of the mountain is being raked by winds howling off the Columbia Icefield.
While working your way up the AA Glacier, you'll be treated to views of Mt. Andromeda on your right, highlighted by several alpine ice climbs that are obvious to the eye. These are the Practice Gullies, the long couloirs leading up to Mt. Andromeda's eastern summit ridge, and the big one you'll see first; Barry Blanchard's Andromeda Strain, a world-class, rocky alpine hard route that gets tougher every year as warming trends and low snowfall plays havoc with the ice needed to ascend the route.
Also known as the Athabasca - Andromeda Col, this is the safest route on the peak, as it is often relatively free from avalanche danger when all of the routes on the north side of Mt. Athabasca are experiencing lee-side windloading. Also, on this side of the mountain the route is in shade until around noon, so the snow stays hard and good for travel, and free from immediate avalanche hazard, when many other mountain routes are already beginning to soften up by this time.
However, it is steep, and rappelling can be required to descend this route in bare and icy late-season conditions, particularly at the bergeschrund. Once you are past the entrance to the AA Col and are on the glacier approaching the col itself, this area can often be sheltered from wind when the rest of the mountain is being raked by winds howling off the Columbia Icefield.
While working your way up the AA Glacier, you'll be treated to views of Mt. Andromeda on your right, highlighted by several alpine ice climbs that are obvious to the eye. These are the Practice Gullies, the long couloirs leading up to Mt. Andromeda's eastern summit ridge, and the big one you'll see first; Barry Blanchard's Andromeda Strain, a world-class, rocky alpine hard route that gets tougher every year as warming trends and low snowfall plays havoc with the ice needed to ascend the route.
AA Col - Approach
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from theColumbia Icefield Centre , which is located 103 kilometers south of Jasper, or 189 kilometers north of Banff, Alberta, in the Columbia Icefield .
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead.
Begin hiking up the paved Snocoach road. The pavement ends at the Snocoach station off to your right. Leave the road, and head off slightly to the left up the moraine, which steepens sharply in places. The trail is marked by cairns but is still quite easy to lose when traveling by headlamp. However, if you just head for the main bulk of Mt. Andromeda, you can't help but pass the start of the AA Col route on your left. Essentially you'll stay below cliff bands on your left and above the snowfield on your right. There is a small rock step before you actually get onto the glacier but it is no more than a scramble - no protection required.
Continue west up the rocky talus and moraine until you come to a small snowfield and see the unmistakable high toe of the little AA Glacier on your left, with the rocky buttresses of Mt. Andromeda to the right of it, and the walls of lower Mt. Athabasca to the left side of the glacier. This is the start of the AA Col route; rope up here.
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from the
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead.
Begin hiking up the paved Snocoach road. The pavement ends at the Snocoach station off to your right. Leave the road, and head off slightly to the left up the moraine, which steepens sharply in places. The trail is marked by cairns but is still quite easy to lose when traveling by headlamp. However, if you just head for the main bulk of Mt. Andromeda, you can't help but pass the start of the AA Col route on your left. Essentially you'll stay below cliff bands on your left and above the snowfield on your right. There is a small rock step before you actually get onto the glacier but it is no more than a scramble - no protection required.
Continue west up the rocky talus and moraine until you come to a small snowfield and see the unmistakable high toe of the little AA Glacier on your left, with the rocky buttresses of Mt. Andromeda to the right of it, and the walls of lower Mt. Athabasca to the left side of the glacier. This is the start of the AA Col route; rope up here.
AA Col - Route Description
The glacier can be easily accessed towards the left side from the rock wall, but you should immediately move away from the wall on your left once on the flat lower part of the glacier. Avalanches can come down this steep slope to the left, and to stay on the proper route will help avoid objective hazards. Head straight for the large high slope at the middle of the Col, watching for hidden crevasses. The walls of either side of this amphitheatre will have to be assessed for avalanche danger as you progress. The route goes slightly left of center to cross a large bergeschrund, which presents an obstacle to the upper slopes. The bergschrund is often covered by avalanche debris until later in the season. The route then goes into the center of the slope and switchbacks hard to the left on the lowest angled terrain possible. After about 400m of climbing, you will gain a broad area called the "saddle" by going through one of several gullies. To head straight up this slope instead of heading left will mean a steeper ascent.
Once you have reached the top of the AA Col above the big slope you will still be about 300m below the summit of Mt. Athabasca, but from this point on the route becomes a little less steep, is not really technical and your biggest worry will be to avoid falling through a snow bridge or sliding down the odd mildly-exposed slope. The route connects with the regular North Glacier route at the broad col connecting the AA Col with the bottom of the final ridge of the Silverhorn. Kick steps up this switchbacked slope, which is often bare scree in the later part of the summer, until you reach the Silverhorn summit. From there, head east, losing some elevation as you connect to the main summit ridge of Mt. Athabasca. A careful fifteen minute walk up this long, gently-sloping ridge, and you will be on the summit.
Descend the same way you came up, and waste no time getting back down the big slope, because by noon the sun has hit it, and snow conditions will be deteriorating quickly. Although this is the safest route on the mountain, avalanches do hit this slope and sign of them is often obvious. Late in the season, the bergeschrund may be open and a rappell might just be the safest way to cross it. Climbers have been hurt trying to jump over it with crampons on, and falling into it on slippery ice is a distinct possiblity. Cross it at the most easy-angled spot you can. Once back on the main glacier, retrace your steps to the moraines, which leaves you an easier 400m - 500m of descent to the main trailhead, much of it down the paved approach of the Snocoach road. However, there is still loose ground on the cliffs and moraines below, and care must be taken in this area on the descent.
The glacier can be easily accessed towards the left side from the rock wall, but you should immediately move away from the wall on your left once on the flat lower part of the glacier. Avalanches can come down this steep slope to the left, and to stay on the proper route will help avoid objective hazards. Head straight for the large high slope at the middle of the Col, watching for hidden crevasses. The walls of either side of this amphitheatre will have to be assessed for avalanche danger as you progress. The route goes slightly left of center to cross a large bergeschrund, which presents an obstacle to the upper slopes. The bergschrund is often covered by avalanche debris until later in the season. The route then goes into the center of the slope and switchbacks hard to the left on the lowest angled terrain possible. After about 400m of climbing, you will gain a broad area called the "saddle" by going through one of several gullies. To head straight up this slope instead of heading left will mean a steeper ascent.
Once you have reached the top of the AA Col above the big slope you will still be about 300m below the summit of Mt. Athabasca, but from this point on the route becomes a little less steep, is not really technical and your biggest worry will be to avoid falling through a snow bridge or sliding down the odd mildly-exposed slope. The route connects with the regular North Glacier route at the broad col connecting the AA Col with the bottom of the final ridge of the Silverhorn. Kick steps up this switchbacked slope, which is often bare scree in the later part of the summer, until you reach the Silverhorn summit. From there, head east, losing some elevation as you connect to the main summit ridge of Mt. Athabasca. A careful fifteen minute walk up this long, gently-sloping ridge, and you will be on the summit.
Descend the same way you came up, and waste no time getting back down the big slope, because by noon the sun has hit it, and snow conditions will be deteriorating quickly. Although this is the safest route on the mountain, avalanches do hit this slope and sign of them is often obvious. Late in the season, the bergeschrund may be open and a rappell might just be the safest way to cross it. Climbers have been hurt trying to jump over it with crampons on, and falling into it on slippery ice is a distinct possiblity. Cross it at the most easy-angled spot you can. Once back on the main glacier, retrace your steps to the moraines, which leaves you an easier 400m - 500m of descent to the main trailhead, much of it down the paved approach of the Snocoach road. However, there is still loose ground on the cliffs and moraines below, and care must be taken in this area on the descent.
Essential Gear
All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must as well; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must as well; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The big slope of the AA Col can often be adversely affected, resulting in avalanche hazard. Ice has been forming earlier as snow disappears, and the route can be exposed to bare ice later in the season, creating treacherous conditions.
Wind-loading and avalanche conditions, during spring months or after storms, can make the other routes on Mt. Athabasca unsafe. The AA Col route is probably the safest ascent and descent route on the peak during any kind of poor conditions. Keep in mind however, that in some instances this route as well may be unsafe to attempt. Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while climbing on the north side of Mt. Athabasca.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Right photo byRescue Dynamics
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The big slope of the AA Col can often be adversely affected, resulting in avalanche hazard. Ice has been forming earlier as snow disappears, and the route can be exposed to bare ice later in the season, creating treacherous conditions.
Wind-loading and avalanche conditions, during spring months or after storms, can make the other routes on Mt. Athabasca unsafe. The AA Col route is probably the safest ascent and descent route on the peak during any kind of poor conditions. Keep in mind however, that in some instances this route as well may be unsafe to attempt. Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while climbing on the north side of Mt. Athabasca.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Right photo by
This illustration of the AA Col route by Greg Horne shows the route (1), the AA Glacier (b), AA Icefall (c) and the Silverhorn (d) from the west. The photo was taken from the Athabasca Glacier.
AA Col - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the AA Col route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
One photo was used courtesy ofRescue Dynamics , and the route illustration is the property of Gregory Horne Photographics. Any uncredited photos are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on the AA Col route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
One photo was used courtesy of