Silverhorn - Overview
The Silverhorn is a subsidiary summit located on Mt. Athabasca just to the west of the main summit. Climbers ascending the North Glacier and AA Col routes must cross its small rounded summit just before reaching the final summit ridge and the main summit. It is perhaps a hundred feet lower than the main summit but the route drops for about forty feet from it to the main ridge before beginning a gentle rise to the highest point on the summit ridge.
It is a fairly steep ridge at around 35 to 40 degrees; just slightly steeper than the North Glacier route, and ices up well before the end of the season in most years. It is a classic route in North American mountaineering, and is often the route of choice for novice mountaineers as a first ascent.
The first ascent of the Silverhorn was done by G.G. MacPhee, N.E. Odell, E.R. Gibson and F.S. Smythe in August of 1947.
Photo by Unknown
The Silverhorn is a subsidiary summit located on Mt. Athabasca just to the west of the main summit. Climbers ascending the North Glacier and AA Col routes must cross its small rounded summit just before reaching the final summit ridge and the main summit. It is perhaps a hundred feet lower than the main summit but the route drops for about forty feet from it to the main ridge before beginning a gentle rise to the highest point on the summit ridge.
It is a fairly steep ridge at around 35 to 40 degrees; just slightly steeper than the North Glacier route, and ices up well before the end of the season in most years. It is a classic route in North American mountaineering, and is often the route of choice for novice mountaineers as a first ascent.
The first ascent of the Silverhorn was done by G.G. MacPhee, N.E. Odell, E.R. Gibson and F.S. Smythe in August of 1947.
Silverhorn - Approach
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from theColumbia Icefield Centre , which is located 103 kilometers south of Jasper, or 189 kilometers north of Banff, Alberta, in the Columbia Icefield .
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
The trailhead is found just west of Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway. The small Snocoach road leading to the trailhead is across the highway from the
Follow the Snocoach road through the first set of gates. These gates will be open at night; during the day you will be required to wait for a Snocoach shuttle driver to pass through for the gates to open. This is not a problem as a bus will pass through every fifteen minutes or so; do not attempt to open the gate yourself. Damaged gates will result in the loss of this privilege to climbing and backcountry enthusiasts.
Follow this paved Snocoach road to a second gate, which is always locked, and pull into the left side, to a gravel parking lot, and park. On the right side of the lot there will be a metal climbers' register box. The register will often contain interesting anecdotes or pertinent beta on routes recently ascended. This is the trailhead, and the approach starts directly up the moraine from here, just off to the right.
From the trailhead begin hiking up an obvious packed scree trail which follows the crest of the moraines right to a small, flat false glacier. Most parties rope up here. Access the real glacier just to the left of this spot. Hike up the glacier's sustained 30-35 degree slopes until you reach a slightly steeper rise with a large crevasse near the bottom and a col at the top. Here you will notice a large dark rock formation to your left, and the bottom of the Silverhorn massif to the right. Slightly before this spot at the col you will pass the exit point to climb the North Glacier. Depending on your party's rate of travel, it could take a few hours to reach this spot from the trailhead. You will proceed straight up and over the col at this point. Beware of a large open crevasse or bergeschrund partially blocking the way to the starting point of the route. A small exposed rock will be noticeable to your right as you reach the base of the ridge that is the Silverhorn route.
Photo by Mack Muir
Silverhorn - Route Description
Climb straight up the crest of the ridge to the top, following an obvious line to the west of the North Face and east of the North Glacier route. In some places there may be small small crevasses which must be crossed or bypassed. Depending on the time of year, the route can consist of breaking trail and postholing in deep snow to solid technical ice.
As with any snow and ice route, the amount of snow vs ice and the size of any crevasses encountered will vary depending on the time of year and from year to year. Generally, the later in the season that the route is climbed, the more ice will be encountered.
The North Glacier route or the AA Col are safer descent routes, especially during the latter part of the season.
Climb straight up the crest of the ridge to the top, following an obvious line to the west of the North Face and east of the North Glacier route. In some places there may be small small crevasses which must be crossed or bypassed. Depending on the time of year, the route can consist of breaking trail and postholing in deep snow to solid technical ice.
As with any snow and ice route, the amount of snow vs ice and the size of any crevasses encountered will vary depending on the time of year and from year to year. Generally, the later in the season that the route is climbed, the more ice will be encountered.
The North Glacier route or the AA Col are safer descent routes, especially during the latter part of the season.
Essential Gear
All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route if it was early in the season and the route was all snow climbing. In this case, it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
If it is later in the season and the route is iced over, two sixty meter 8.5mm double ropes or half ropes are a good way to belay this route. One rope may be used, but in case of retreat, two ropes will provide the quickest and safest rappell off the face. An Abalakov hook and a short coil of 6mm or 7mm cord to tie Abalakov anchor loops would be the least expensive option in case a rappel was required, and would allow the climber to descend the face without having to leave ice screws in the route.
A rack of six to ten ice screws, a helmet, two ice tools and crampons are required, although a good heavy glacier ax could be substituted for one of the ice tools. Twelve point, adjustable glacier-style crampons with horizontal front points would be sufficient, but rigid crampons with vertical front points or monopoints work better on technical ice.
A team equipped with a pair of two-way radios will enjoy the additional luxury of being able to communicate with ease while pitched out, and therefore not be forced to yell over the wind or vertical distance, which can make it difficult for partners to adequately communicate with each other. Radios could be arguably be considered a safety item on a gear list for this type of climb.
A good warm down jacket and warm waterproof gloves can be valuable here, as this is an exposed ridge with blizzard-like winds, slough and spindrift. A pair of storm goggles would be a good idea to have along while on the route, to protect the eyes from ice chips and heavy spindrift or wind.
Center and right photos byDow Williams
All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route if it was early in the season and the route was all snow climbing. In this case, it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
If it is later in the season and the route is iced over, two sixty meter 8.5mm double ropes or half ropes are a good way to belay this route. One rope may be used, but in case of retreat, two ropes will provide the quickest and safest rappell off the face. An Abalakov hook and a short coil of 6mm or 7mm cord to tie Abalakov anchor loops would be the least expensive option in case a rappel was required, and would allow the climber to descend the face without having to leave ice screws in the route.
A rack of six to ten ice screws, a helmet, two ice tools and crampons are required, although a good heavy glacier ax could be substituted for one of the ice tools. Twelve point, adjustable glacier-style crampons with horizontal front points would be sufficient, but rigid crampons with vertical front points or monopoints work better on technical ice.
A team equipped with a pair of two-way radios will enjoy the additional luxury of being able to communicate with ease while pitched out, and therefore not be forced to yell over the wind or vertical distance, which can make it difficult for partners to adequately communicate with each other. Radios could be arguably be considered a safety item on a gear list for this type of climb.
A good warm down jacket and warm waterproof gloves can be valuable here, as this is an exposed ridge with blizzard-like winds, slough and spindrift. A pair of storm goggles would be a good idea to have along while on the route, to protect the eyes from ice chips and heavy spindrift or wind.
Center and right photos by
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The routes have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty when climbing through the crux areas on these routes.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while involved with the routes on the north side of the mountain.
An early "alpine start" is an excellent idea when attempting this route. There is often more than one team on this ridge; it's best to be first in line. The fusillade of falling ice or sluffing snow from parties high on the route can be deadly, and very dangerous to climbers lower on the Silverhorn route.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
It should be noted that lighter than normal snowfall levels for the past few years, combined with warming trends have contributed to the overall deterioration of the routes on this mountain. This has resulted in an increase in rockfall, icefall and sluffing from the snowfields, seracs and rock bands of Mt. Athabasca. The routes have been adversely affected, resulting in more accidents, as well as more technical difficulty when climbing through the crux areas on these routes.
Bear in mind that on any given day of the year, blizzards, high winds, snow, freezing rain and whiteout can strike this area, often with little advance warning. Storms often move in from the west, where it is impossible to see them approaching while involved with the routes on the north side of the mountain.
An early "alpine start" is an excellent idea when attempting this route. There is often more than one team on this ridge; it's best to be first in line. The fusillade of falling ice or sluffing snow from parties high on the route can be deadly, and very dangerous to climbers lower on the Silverhorn route.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
The routes illustrated above in Sean Dougherty's book, "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" are, from left to right: North Ridge, North Face, Hourglass, Silverhorn and the North Glacier route. The Snocoach road and trailhead are seen near the bottom of the photo.
Silverhorn - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the Silverhorn route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
Images courtesy ofMack Muir and Dow Williams . The route illustration is featured in Sean Dougherty's excellent guide book "Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies." (now out of print)
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on the Silverhorn route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
Images courtesy of
All other photos are the property of Henry Timmer.