East Face - Overview
The east side of Mt. Columbia is a classic, non-technical ski ascent and a favorite with ski touring groups during the spring months. The mountains of the Columbia Icefield can be climbed year round, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Ski touring season is busiest from March to June, although winter conditions will often still be prevalent at times during these months. Very few ascents are made of Mt. Columbia in winter due to brutally cold temperatures with high wind chills, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. The legendary weather of this area has put an end to countless attempts at the mountain's summit with its unrelenting winds and frequent, notorious whiteouts.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Early summer can be a very wet and stormy time of the year in the icefield. Winter conditions and spring avalanches often continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the icefield, chilling the entire area, even in summer months.
Photo by Dan Ronsky
The east side of Mt. Columbia is a classic, non-technical ski ascent and a favorite with ski touring groups during the spring months. The mountains of the Columbia Icefield can be climbed year round, but the main climbing season runs from June until September. Ski touring season is busiest from March to June, although winter conditions will often still be prevalent at times during these months. Very few ascents are made of Mt. Columbia in winter due to brutally cold temperatures with high wind chills, frequent storms, heavy snowpack, and avalanches. The legendary weather of this area has put an end to countless attempts at the mountain's summit with its unrelenting winds and frequent, notorious whiteouts.
Even summer climbs can be subjected to storms and winter conditions, which have resulted in dumps of snow a foot deep on the highway in the valleys (during the month of July), heavier snowfalls at higher elevations, and even occasional frostbite injuries to climbers during the summer months. Early summer can be a very wet and stormy time of the year in the icefield. Winter conditions and spring avalanches often continue right into June. Often, a very cold wind will blow across the icefield, chilling the entire area, even in summer months.
East Face - Approach
The trailhead is the headwall of the Athabasca Glacier, just west of Highway 93, opposite the Columbia Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park. It is located 103 km south of Jasper, Alberta, or 189 km north of Banff, Alberta. If travelling from Banff, you must drive on Highway 1, the Trans-Canada Highway, to Lake Louise, then turn north on Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway, to reach the mountain.
To reach the headwall of the Athabasca Glacier, you may follow the Snocoach road up to its terminus at the Snocoach station, follow the dirt road down the moraine onto the glacier, or begin at the toe of the glacier, don skis and head straight for the three steps of the headwall, with its large icefall. The route up the headwall should be obvious here. Many parties head to the left side of the stepped icefall to avoid climbing under the seracs of Snow Dome, which threaten the right side. If you chose the right side, move fast and do not stop. Having gained the headwall, the approach begins with a long, fairly flat section of glacier that gives way to a gentle slope leading down to the Trench, which separates Mt.Columbia from the rest of the Columbia Icefield. You will be heading in a southwest direction towards Mt. Columbia. The final descent to the Trench is a little steeper. It takes competent skiers at least seven hours to reach and cross the Trench from the headwall. Some route finding through crevassed areas is necessary. About a thousand feet of elevation in total will be lost and regained crossing the Trench.
The East Face (grade II) is considered the standard route. It is a non-techical ascent; climbers usually ski roped together to an area between the Trench and the base of the mountain, drop their skis and dig in a high camp.
Right photo by Dan Ronsky
The trailhead is the headwall of the Athabasca Glacier, just west of Highway 93, opposite the Columbia Icefield Centre in Jasper National Park. It is located 103 km south of Jasper, Alberta, or 189 km north of Banff, Alberta. If travelling from Banff, you must drive on Highway 1, the Trans-Canada Highway, to Lake Louise, then turn north on Highway 93, the Icefield Parkway, to reach the mountain.
To reach the headwall of the Athabasca Glacier, you may follow the Snocoach road up to its terminus at the Snocoach station, follow the dirt road down the moraine onto the glacier, or begin at the toe of the glacier, don skis and head straight for the three steps of the headwall, with its large icefall. The route up the headwall should be obvious here. Many parties head to the left side of the stepped icefall to avoid climbing under the seracs of Snow Dome, which threaten the right side. If you chose the right side, move fast and do not stop. Having gained the headwall, the approach begins with a long, fairly flat section of glacier that gives way to a gentle slope leading down to the Trench, which separates Mt.Columbia from the rest of the Columbia Icefield. You will be heading in a southwest direction towards Mt. Columbia. The final descent to the Trench is a little steeper. It takes competent skiers at least seven hours to reach and cross the Trench from the headwall. Some route finding through crevassed areas is necessary. About a thousand feet of elevation in total will be lost and regained crossing the Trench.
The East Face (grade II) is considered the standard route. It is a non-techical ascent; climbers usually ski roped together to an area between the Trench and the base of the mountain, drop their skis and dig in a high camp.
Right photo by Dan Ronsky
East Face - Route Description
The climbing consists crossing the bergeschrund and kicking steps for about 400 m of climbing, all the way up to the mountain's flat, gently rolling plateau and twin summits. The actual ascent from high camp near the Trench to the summit will take about five or six hours.
The climb takes a line up the left side of the East Face, avoiding the crevasses that plague much of the face further to the right, all of the way to the summit plateau. The less-technical left side ascends a forty-five degree snowfield, and is basically a snow climb, with the possibility of encountering ice further up. The angle eases near the top, but the crevasses don't, as there are even crevasses present between the two summits, which are nothing more than a pair of low, snowy, corniced humps projecting out over the North Face. Care must be taken to avoid walking too close to the fracture zone of these cornices, formed by the stiff winds that rake the highest peak in the Columbia Icefield.
After descending to the base of Mt. Columbia it is possible to ski all the way back to the Trench, as it is all downhill. Wands must be used, and should not be left in the Icefield. To flag all the way to Columbia from the top of the headwall could require in excess of fifty wands, depending on how often they were placed.
Photos by Dan Ronsky
The climbing consists crossing the bergeschrund and kicking steps for about 400 m of climbing, all the way up to the mountain's flat, gently rolling plateau and twin summits. The actual ascent from high camp near the Trench to the summit will take about five or six hours.
The climb takes a line up the left side of the East Face, avoiding the crevasses that plague much of the face further to the right, all of the way to the summit plateau. The less-technical left side ascends a forty-five degree snowfield, and is basically a snow climb, with the possibility of encountering ice further up. The angle eases near the top, but the crevasses don't, as there are even crevasses present between the two summits, which are nothing more than a pair of low, snowy, corniced humps projecting out over the North Face. Care must be taken to avoid walking too close to the fracture zone of these cornices, formed by the stiff winds that rake the highest peak in the Columbia Icefield.
After descending to the base of Mt. Columbia it is possible to ski all the way back to the Trench, as it is all downhill. Wands must be used, and should not be left in the Icefield. To flag all the way to Columbia from the top of the headwall could require in excess of fifty wands, depending on how often they were placed.
Photos by Dan Ronsky
Essential Gear
Skis are the preferred method of travel across this endless glacier. Snowshoes will do the job, but not as well, and the ski descent will go rapidly and without effort. All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
Photos by Dan Ronsky
Skis are the preferred method of travel across this endless glacier. Snowshoes will do the job, but not as well, and the ski descent will go rapidly and without effort. All climbers on a glacier should wear a helmet. A 50-60 meter dry rope, (8.5-10 mm) would be sufficient for this route, and it would probably be prudent for each member to pack a snow picket or deadman anchor, and an ice screw or two in case of an unexpected required belay in an icy spot. Standard glacier travel gear is necessary. Crampons are a must in case ice is encountered.
Dark glasses are a must; storm goggles are good to have when the wind comes up, and don't be caught on the glacier without sunscreen. A collapsible hiking pole does wonders to save energy and reduce strain on the legs and lower back.
A chest harness, worn while travelling on glacier will allow a second, higher tie-in point which will prevent a climber from hanging upside-down under the weight of a pack, should a fall into a crevasse occur. However, use a climbing harness as well - never climb with only a chest harness.
Photos by Dan Ronsky
Disclaimer- Hazard Warning
Solo or unroped skiing or climbing on any part of the approach through the icefield or on Mt. Columbia is not recommended; fatalities and disappearances have been the result of unroped skiing and climbing in this area in the past. This isolated mountain receives severe storms on any given day of the year, and climbers or skiers attempting to make an ascent of Mt. Columbia must remain observant and vigilant at all times, as the weather in the Columbia Icefield can change suddenly, without warning. It is basically a ski ascent, although most climbers leave their skis at the bottom of the East Face.
Getting lost in this area is a real possibility, given that one day in three is statistically clear. Whiteouts, high winds, storms and generally uncooperative weather have ended most attempts to climb Mt. Columbia. Solid navigation skills are a must, and to enter this area without a good topographical map, compass and altimeter and the skills to use them properly would be foolhardy. A GPS would be good to have along as well as the aforementioned equipment. Set plenty of waypoints and check them often.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Left photo by Rod Plasman; Right photos by Dan Ronsky
Solo or unroped skiing or climbing on any part of the approach through the icefield or on Mt. Columbia is not recommended; fatalities and disappearances have been the result of unroped skiing and climbing in this area in the past. This isolated mountain receives severe storms on any given day of the year, and climbers or skiers attempting to make an ascent of Mt. Columbia must remain observant and vigilant at all times, as the weather in the Columbia Icefield can change suddenly, without warning. It is basically a ski ascent, although most climbers leave their skis at the bottom of the East Face.
Getting lost in this area is a real possibility, given that one day in three is statistically clear. Whiteouts, high winds, storms and generally uncooperative weather have ended most attempts to climb Mt. Columbia. Solid navigation skills are a must, and to enter this area without a good topographical map, compass and altimeter and the skills to use them properly would be foolhardy. A GPS would be good to have along as well as the aforementioned equipment. Set plenty of waypoints and check them often.
Climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
Left photo by Rod Plasman; Right photos by Dan Ronsky
East Face - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on the East Face route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
Many thanks to Dan Ronsky and Rod Plasman for the generous use of their fine photos.
The information contained on the East Face route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
Many thanks to Dan Ronsky and Rod Plasman for the generous use of their fine photos.