The Professor Falls - Overview
Mt. Rundle has one of the greatest collections of varying ice routes in the world. With hard core routes such as Sea of Vapours, The Terminator, The Replicant, (all over 150 m in length and graded at V WI 6+ to WI 7) and a group of more moderates such as The Professor Falls, Shampoo Planet, Welcome to Canada, La Goutte, (all graded around IV WI 4 to WI 5 and in varying lengths between 190 m to 650 m) this area cannot be beaten when combined with the easy approaches, vertical relief and fat ice on many of them. Some of the spectacular routes in this range do not always form completely and can be very thin or even absent in low-snow years, leading to the saying espoused by hard core climbers that "it doesn't always have to be formed to be formed." Other harder routes in the area are Postscriptum,The Whipper Traverse, Sam Goes Trekking, and Sacre Bleu. (all graded around IV WI 5)
The Professor Falls was named after the eccentric pioneer Calgary mountaineer and ice climber, Professor Eckhard Grassman, who took a fall when he made the first ascent of the route. This line is located in the shaded side of Mt. Rundle and has a constant supply of meltoff from above to keep the route formed. It is usually one of the first routes to form, danger from above after winter storms, and several large avalanches have been reported to reach the Bow River from the area above the route. Parties have been buried by avalanches at the bottom of the route.
Mt. Rundle has one of the greatest collections of varying ice routes in the world. With hard core routes such as Sea of Vapours, The Terminator, The Replicant, (all over 150 m in length and graded at V WI 6+ to WI 7) and a group of more moderates such as The Professor Falls, Shampoo Planet, Welcome to Canada, La Goutte, (all graded around IV WI 4 to WI 5 and in varying lengths between 190 m to 650 m) this area cannot be beaten when combined with the easy approaches, vertical relief and fat ice on many of them. Some of the spectacular routes in this range do not always form completely and can be very thin or even absent in low-snow years, leading to the saying espoused by hard core climbers that "it doesn't always have to be formed to be formed." Other harder routes in the area are Postscriptum,The Whipper Traverse, Sam Goes Trekking, and Sacre Bleu. (all graded around IV WI 5)
The Professor Falls was named after the eccentric pioneer Calgary mountaineer and ice climber, Professor Eckhard Grassman, who took a fall when he made the first ascent of the route. This line is located in the shaded side of Mt. Rundle and has a constant supply of meltoff from above to keep the route formed. It is usually one of the first routes to form, danger from above after winter storms, and several large avalanches have been reported to reach the Bow River from the area above the route. Parties have been buried by avalanches at the bottom of the route.
Finding the Trophy Wall Neighborhood
Get yourself to Banff, Alberta. Once in Banff look for signs directing you to the Banff Springs Golf Course along the Bow River. Park your car at the view point by the Bow Falls parking lot near the Banff Springs Hotel. This is the trailhead area for The Professor Falls and other climbs in the area, including all of the climbs on Mt. Rundle's Trophy Wall. Walk across the Goat Creek Bridge and follow the golf course road for 3 km to a fork in the road, and take the right fork. This is the old parking area. Follow the right hand fork for another 1.5 km, to a hiking trail which branches off to the right. This is the original parking area.
Follow this trail through the forest and along the Bow River to your left, as you watch the mountain through the trees on your right for glimpses of world-class test pieces such as Sea of Vapours, The Replicant and The Terminator, all located on Mt. Rundle's famed Trophy Wall.
You will reach a right turn in the trail at a clearing to your right. Turn here, look up and you will see the obvious blue columns and steps of The Professor Falls directly in front of you about four hundred yards away, at the top of a wide talus drainage. At this point, you will have been hiking for about one hour since leaving the trailhead. As this is one of the most popular moderate climbing areas and ice routes in Banff National Park, you will in all likelihood be following a well-broken trail all of the way from the trailhead.
Get yourself to Banff, Alberta. Once in Banff look for signs directing you to the Banff Springs Golf Course along the Bow River. Park your car at the view point by the Bow Falls parking lot near the Banff Springs Hotel. This is the trailhead area for The Professor Falls and other climbs in the area, including all of the climbs on Mt. Rundle's Trophy Wall. Walk across the Goat Creek Bridge and follow the golf course road for 3 km to a fork in the road, and take the right fork. This is the old parking area. Follow the right hand fork for another 1.5 km, to a hiking trail which branches off to the right. This is the original parking area.
Follow this trail through the forest and along the Bow River to your left, as you watch the mountain through the trees on your right for glimpses of world-class test pieces such as Sea of Vapours, The Replicant and The Terminator, all located on Mt. Rundle's famed Trophy Wall.
You will reach a right turn in the trail at a clearing to your right. Turn here, look up and you will see the obvious blue columns and steps of The Professor Falls directly in front of you about four hundred yards away, at the top of a wide talus drainage. At this point, you will have been hiking for about one hour since leaving the trailhead. As this is one of the most popular moderate climbing areas and ice routes in Banff National Park, you will in all likelihood be following a well-broken trail all of the way from the trailhead.
The Professor Falls - Route Description
This 300 m route is found in a narrow gully below and to the left of the much harder routes on the Trophy Wall. There are bolted chain and cable anchors set at every one of the first three belay stations, which are wide, roomy, frozen pools that allow ease of belaying, setting up rappels or just resting. These pitches are fairly long, stepped and often wet, no matter how cold it is. The first three pitches are very steep, around WI 4, becoming a little easier for the fourth pitch. The fifth is the crux and consists of 80 to 90 degree ice.
Walking down from any of the first three pitches is possible, and hiking up and around the first three pitches is also possible. Several shorter steps , followed by about 300 feet of snow climbing will lead you to the final crux pitch, a full 40 m flow of up to 90 degree vertical. This final pitch can be very wet, thin and hollow in places and is the most technical pitch of the entire route. This pitch cannot be seen from the top of the fourth pitch because it is about a five minute walk higher up the gully containing the whole route.
As this is such a popular route, you will need to be there very early as other parties will begin showing up with the sunrise. Waiting and having to deal with falling ice, equipment and debris are a definite possibility if you start too late.
To descend, most parties rappel the route. Bear in mind that ropes will likely be covered in a thick layer of slush, so extra caution must be taken and remember to watch out for the inevitable slower parties still making their way up below you. However, there are other options for descent if you do not wish to rappel the main route itself. From the top of the final pitch, head off to the left and climb down through trees on steep ground, taking care to avoid any rock slabs, which will be steep and hazardous. You can traverse back to the gully below the final top pitch and downclimb the steps to the top of the third pitch. Rappells from this point are possible to the left of the gully as well, but anchor points are intermittently spaced and trees are not solid as a result of the steep grade, so rappelling the route itself is your best option. To do so you may need to let a party below you pass before beginning.
This 300 m route is found in a narrow gully below and to the left of the much harder routes on the Trophy Wall. There are bolted chain and cable anchors set at every one of the first three belay stations, which are wide, roomy, frozen pools that allow ease of belaying, setting up rappels or just resting. These pitches are fairly long, stepped and often wet, no matter how cold it is. The first three pitches are very steep, around WI 4, becoming a little easier for the fourth pitch. The fifth is the crux and consists of 80 to 90 degree ice.
Walking down from any of the first three pitches is possible, and hiking up and around the first three pitches is also possible. Several shorter steps , followed by about 300 feet of snow climbing will lead you to the final crux pitch, a full 40 m flow of up to 90 degree vertical. This final pitch can be very wet, thin and hollow in places and is the most technical pitch of the entire route. This pitch cannot be seen from the top of the fourth pitch because it is about a five minute walk higher up the gully containing the whole route.
As this is such a popular route, you will need to be there very early as other parties will begin showing up with the sunrise. Waiting and having to deal with falling ice, equipment and debris are a definite possibility if you start too late.
To descend, most parties rappel the route. Bear in mind that ropes will likely be covered in a thick layer of slush, so extra caution must be taken and remember to watch out for the inevitable slower parties still making their way up below you. However, there are other options for descent if you do not wish to rappel the main route itself. From the top of the final pitch, head off to the left and climb down through trees on steep ground, taking care to avoid any rock slabs, which will be steep and hazardous. You can traverse back to the gully below the final top pitch and downclimb the steps to the top of the third pitch. Rappells from this point are possible to the left of the gully as well, but anchor points are intermittently spaced and trees are not solid as a result of the steep grade, so rappelling the route itself is your best option. To do so you may need to let a party below you pass before beginning.
Essential Gear for Multipitch Ice
A typical rack of six or seven ice screws, a few locking carabiners, a few quickdraws, some regular carabiners, and perhaps four or five two foot sewn slings to extend anchor points would be required. Two half ropes, 60 m in length are optimum for this climb, allowing parties to reach successive bolt stations on single rappels.
Personal gear should include a helmet to protect the climber from falling ice, rock, dropped equipment, tools, etc. A pair of two-way radios are invaluable for communication with party members who have disappeared over bulges or steps to continue the route or set up belays, and could arguably be considered a safety measure (especially for a second climber who's unsure if the leader has the belay ready and cannot hear the time-honored "On belay!" signal). A daisy chain is nice to tie off with at belays, and a prussic sling or some type of autoblock should be used on rappell. Two ice tools and crampons will complete the list.
A typical rack of six or seven ice screws, a few locking carabiners, a few quickdraws, some regular carabiners, and perhaps four or five two foot sewn slings to extend anchor points would be required. Two half ropes, 60 m in length are optimum for this climb, allowing parties to reach successive bolt stations on single rappels.
Personal gear should include a helmet to protect the climber from falling ice, rock, dropped equipment, tools, etc. A pair of two-way radios are invaluable for communication with party members who have disappeared over bulges or steps to continue the route or set up belays, and could arguably be considered a safety measure (especially for a second climber who's unsure if the leader has the belay ready and cannot hear the time-honored "On belay!" signal). A daisy chain is nice to tie off with at belays, and a prussic sling or some type of autoblock should be used on rappell. Two ice tools and crampons will complete the list.
Disclaimer - Hazard Warning
There is risk of avalanche from high above the route. Check avalanche conditions before attempting this climb. It's a popular climb so be there by dawn or get in line. The usual falling ice / falling gear / falling climber hazards apply here.
Ice climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
There is risk of avalanche from high above the route. Check avalanche conditions before attempting this climb. It's a popular climb so be there by dawn or get in line. The usual falling ice / falling gear / falling climber hazards apply here.
Ice climbing is dangerous. Climb at your own risk.
The Professor Falls - Acknowledgements and Photo Credits
The information contained on The Professor Falls route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me atclimbwild@hotmail.com
All images on this page are the property of Henry Timmer.
The information contained on The Professor Falls route page has been compiled by Henry Timmer, a Canadian citizen, mountaineer and adventurer currently residing in Sacramento, California, USA. To make comments, corrections, additions or inquiries, contact me at
All images on this page are the property of Henry Timmer.